Surfing is way more than a modern fad - it was invented hundreds of years ago by the Pacific islanders of Polynesia. Kidzworld takes a look at the science behind the wettest sport the summer has to offer.
How Waves are Formed 681a37
When wind blows over the vast expanses of the open water, it creates waves. Three factors influence how big those waves are - the speed of the wind, distance the wind travels over the water (also known as "fetch") and the length of time it travels for. The friction, which causes the wave to grow taller, slow down and eventually break.
Breaking Up is Hard to Do 5z7241
The shape of the ocean floor and the direction of the wind are the two main factors that cause a wave to break (crash). The messy and choppy.
Riding the Wave 6y1g3n
carried along by the wave. The rider stands and uses balance and the shifting of his body weight to control his direction.
Did U Know? 696k2p
- Some Australian universities offer degrees in "Surf Science and Technology".
- Olympic medalist Duke Kahanamoku is often credited as having introduced surfing to the world.
- Surfboards were originally made of wood but most are now made from polyurethane foam and then wrapped in fiberglass.
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